Europe in America
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modern traditions |
A recent trip to Québec City (my first) was a
wonderfully disturbing experience. I have not experienced a more European city
on this side of the Atlantic—I don’t actually believe any could exist. Part of this,
of course, was the language, but much was the urban environment: I had to keep
reminding myself that we drove there and did not fly. Mind you, it rained the
entire time we were there, so I wasn’t charmed by the climate (winters, of
course, are worse). For someone like me who believes European cities are the
pinnacle of urbanism, the dearth of more directly European (or should I say
pre-Modern?) inspired cities in North America must count as a loss, and I have
felt so since my Rome study year—after which I continually expected to see hill
towns along the highways of Pennsylvania. The European city is, I would argue,
demonstrably better than the Anglo-American alternative at every physical
level—continuity, figure/ground, contained public space, fabric/monument
relationships, accommodation to topography, boundary between inside and outside the city—and yet our modern world convinces
itself that cities should be evaluated on other terms like “vitality,”
nightlife, “energy,” etc. On those terms Toronto is far and away the better
city, but it does not inspire anything like the sense of serene urbanity that
Québec does. I suppose a perfect city would have both—I trust they are not
mutually exclusive—but since the Toronto model has dominated the last couple of
centuries, I would advocate for a few more Québecs, if only because, well, pourquoi pas?
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the lower town's Place Royal |
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Notre Dame des [short-lived] Victoires |
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lower town |
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Rue Petit Champlain |
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looking up to the "Château" Frontenac |
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opposite Frontenac |
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the quintessential stuff |
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fabric buildings (i.e. figural space)! |
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the happily-sited Université Laval school of Architecture
in the old Cathedral Seminary |
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the seminary court |
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from the passage to the seminary court |
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looking east on Rue St. Louis
Où suis-je ? |
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and if you have to have highrises.... |
marvellous David, thank you for posting this!
ReplyDeleteHow far back does Quebec City date?
ReplyDeleteIt was founded in 1608, but the lower town dates from a few decades later, interestingly roughly contemporary with the founded town of Richelieu in France: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Richelieu,_Indre-et-Loire
ReplyDelete